Paris Fashion Week Fall and Winter 2015
Let it be that milestone moment of Donatella Versace sitting front
row for Vaccarello's first collection, since officially being appointed
Versus Versace creative director, to begin Paris Fashion Week F/W 2015.
Unlike New York fashion week's oversize jumpers shrugging loosely over
models' shoulders, Paris seemed to reside in the tailored world of
blacks. Vaccarello's recent travels to the American West brought a,
somewhat, rock 'n' roll vibe, where subtle, and not-so-subtle, metal
stars encroach on the dresses of the collection. However, Vaccarello's
signature cutouts became a focal point - slim industrialized half-belts
resting on the waist and the harsh angular shoulders formed the
dominatrix attitude that now proceeds to challenge the sensuality of
Italian craftsmanship.
Disproportionate wafts of felt, poplin,
ribbed knits and corduroy stitched together, as a naïve youth would have
done in Kindergarten art class, came hand in hand with the bare
breasted models of Parisian fashion label Jacquemus' collection. Unlike
the usual orange pink hues and geometric aptitude of designer Simon
Porte, this Fall collection dwells in the far-from-systematic realms of
fashion land, where his style of dilapidated chaos is swooned over.
Nevertheless, this seemingly childish parcel of amusement had an added
visionary texture. Berlin-based photographer Sebastian Bieniek's
"Doublefaced" series was central inspiration in Lyne Desnoyers, MAC
makeup artist's, graphic kohl facial art that endearingly complimented
the abstract jigsaw puzzle atmosphere.
DIOR'S ODE TO AUSTIN POWERS
Camouflaging
in the psychedelic realm that could easily be mistaken for the sixties,
Raf Simons', of Dior, F/W 2015 collection traversed into an
intoxicating vibrancy that could only be described as an ode to Austin
Power's infamous mojo. One of which radiated sexuality, nevertheless,
subdued in the refined tailoring of Dior craftsmanship. A skintight suit
of fluorescent orange, moss green and white marbling, sultry in
stature, is definitely not for the faint-hearted. While the acrylic-like
mesh high neck, sleeveless tops in washed greens and pinks were paired
with ink blotted mid calf skirts, broke up the bright colour blocking
and brought back elements of the clean-cut atmosphere from Spring 2015
Ready-to-wear.
On another note, however, Simon's collaborative
effort with Danish Textile Company Kvadrat came with a sophisticated
tweak, as androgynous suits and F/W coats were constructed with tweed
combinations of soft pastels and condiment colours of mustard and
tomato.
Although, in this ordered disorder of fanciful design,
what seemed to be the focus, and presumably the next style phenomenon in
the 2015 fashion game, was the vinyl knee-high and ankle boots. Paired
with the seemingly Veruschka-like inspired doll-eyed, "color-blocked
arches of opaque eye shadow", the collection of boots glossed there way
up to the pinnacle of fashion heaven.
BALMAIN FALL 2015 PARIS FASHION WEEK
Pleats,
stripes and diamond tassels are back, according to Oliver Rousteing of
world-renowned fashion label Balmain. With a fifty-piece collection,
Rousteing took an alternate route after last years Fall/Winter khaki and
leather basket weave constructions.
The recent Fall/Winter 2015
collection, however, "celebrate[s] that Parisian tradition as well as
the evolution of [the] city into a truly global melting pot." This
collection is of passionate colour, not only visually but also
conceptually. At first glance, under the dim yellow hues of the runway
lights, the seventies inspired flares and breaths of diamond-stringed
fabric in coral, mustard and fuchsia seemed to be one of the cool and
groovy nature. However, Rousteing released a statement to journalists
where he spoke about recent events in Paris, and so, "that open-minded
spirit" and "defending essential liberties" is a driving force of the
seventies inspired diversity and strength.
Each design came out
empowering and unwavering; nevertheless, still bringing a soft pleated
touch in the high-waist pants and the envious gleam of the audiences'
eyes seemed to reflect off the kaleidoscopic copper-beaded fringing. One
cannot fault the precision to detail and pure talent of such an
influential designer in our generation, one that will continue, year
after year, to incite, intrigue and shock the fashion world.